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 SECURING SERVO TRAY IN TERRYS FUSE
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Larry Ruble

13 Posts

Posted - 01/07/2004 :  3:44:24 PM  Show Profile
I WOULD LIKE TO GET IDEAS ON HOW TO BEST SECURE THE SERVO TRAY INSIDE TERRY'S FUSE.

THE ORIGINAL MANTIS PLAN WITH PHIL'S FUSE ON HIS WEBSITE SHOWS SCREWS THROUGH THE FUSE. I PREFER NOT DRILLING INTO TERRY'S FUSE.

I DO WANT TO PUT THE SERVOS RIGHT UP AGAINST THE BATTERY AS FAR FORWARD AS I CAN. I WOULD LIKE TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE BATTERY WITHOUT MAJOR SURGERY. THANKS FOR ANY PICTURES ON SUGGESTIONS YOU MAY HAVE.

Phil Barnes

100 Posts

Posted - 01/08/2004 :  02:04:04 AM  Show Profile
The original Mantis just had a small frame of 1/4x1/2 spruce rails that held a couple HS80 or similar servos. This frame was just epoxied inside the pod. There were no screws to hold it. There was enough room ahead of the tray to insert and remove the reciever battery.

The Mantis website is not and never was my website. It was put up by Charlie French a few years ago. A couple people added some stuff to it and it has never been changed or updated since. I told him it was OK to put the site there but asked that he make it clear that it was not my site. He didn't do a very good job of that part though. If you read closely you will notice that I am refered to in the third person and that there is some very fine print at the bottom of the intro page that mentions that it is not my site. Unfortunately, it seems to be a common belief that it is my site.

Phil
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kiesling

45 Posts

Posted - 01/09/2004 :  12:23:30 PM  Show Profile
In my fuse I have the battery first, the receiver second, and
the servos last. The reason for doing this is to have easy access
to the receiver to change crystals. With a reasonable weight V-tail
(3 ounces or less) you should have no problem balancing the model
without any nose weight. In fact I had to resort to a smaller battery
to get my model to balance.

I use 1/8" aircraft plywood to make the servo tray. It is
just a rectangular piece with a rectangular hole sized for
both servos. The sides of the plate are sized to fit snug against
the sides of the fuse. Usually I just sand the edges gradually until
it fits without deforming the fuse too much. Once you get it to
the right size you should be able to position it without it falling out.
Once it is in position, I usually tack it in place with some CA.
Then I 3M77 some 2 ounce fiber glass strips to the edge of the plate
and the fuse wall. Strips are about 3/4" wide. Then I wet them out
with some west systems epoxy. Never had a problem with this method.

Tom

Edited by - kiesling on 01/09/2004 12:23:53 PM
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